| Subject: | Re: [RESOGUIT-L] bridge inserts | | Date: | Saturday, October 1, 2005 15:55:21 (+0000) | | From: | reso-man <reso-man @.......net>
|
Hey Larue and Hi Dick DeNeve,
IVORY tipped maple bridges?? Am I the only one in reso-world who's never heard
of these?? (Or is Ivory tipped bridges sum-NEW-kinda "Left Coast Thing"??) Just
curious, like where can I get, and how much $$'s???
Opinions, reports, c'mon fellow listers.......clue me in on these things?
Richie in Salem, N.H.
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> --- "laruepork@netzero.com"
> wrote:
>
> > Richie, love yer post (all the others too).
> > I still don't have my danged bridges dialed in. They
> > are STILL way too low after two fixit's by others.
>
> Sounds like you cut that board off twice, and it's
> still too short!
>
> Here's the Q.
> > How can I measure, and what do I measure from, to
> > trim/cut/sand new ivory tipped maple bridges from
> > Paul. And, how can I tell if the bone nut I had
> > luthier 1 intstall, is cut right, or too low, or too
> > high? Before or AFTER I try and change my own
> > bridges.
>
> There are a couple of ways to do it. Unfortunately,
> you will need a couple of tools (you were reluctant to
> get started down that road). With the guitar set up
> and in tune, measure as best you can the amount by
> which the top of the current inserts in too low. The
> new inserts will have to be this much higher than the
> old to fit properly.
>
> Disassemble the guitar. With a sheet of sandpaper
> (about 180 or 240 grit) on a flat surface, like on a
> large sheet of newspaper on a kitchen table, sand off
> the bottoms and tops of the new inserts until they are
> the desired height above the old ones. Use a full
> sheet of sandpaper and long light smooth strokes for
> the sanding. If the new inserts are about 1/4 of
> their height in ivory, try to maintain that proportion
> as you sand, removing 3 times as much from the bottom
> as you do from the top. (More ivory should increase
> treble response or brightness.) Try to maintain the
> tops and bottoms parallel to each other, and check
> them often against the height of the old ones. I
> would recommend that you leave the old ones in the
> slot until you get the new ones to the height you
> want. Often inserts are broken in removing them, and
> this would lose your height reference.
>
> Once the new ones are at the right height, remove the
> old ones and try the new ones for fit. They probably
> will be too thick for the slots. Dump the dust from
> your sandpaper, and sand the sides of the inserts.
> Add a bit of extra pressure to the bottom of the
> insert, to make it a little thinner than the top. Try
> for fit every couple of strokes, so you don't overdo.
> If one end fits into the slot lower than the other
> end, add a little extra pressure to the thicker end.
> Once they fit most of the way into the slot, you can
> tap them home with a small beater. Use a small block
> of wood on the top of the insert to distribute the
> blow over the whole top. Tap straight down to avoid
> snapping the insert off. And use a small block of
> wood under the center of the spider to support it.
> (Tools, tools, tools.)
>
> I like to use a tension screw in the hole in the
> spider to make sure I get the inserts in the right
> place, and as close together as I can and still leave
> room for the screw head. But not everyone has a hole
> drilled in his (her?) kitchen table to accommmodate
> the shank of the screw. If the inserts are too far
> apart, there will be insufficient support for the
> sides of the slots holding the two center strings. If
> teh inserts are too close together, you can shave them
> back with a sharp knife, or file them back, until the
> screw fits.
>
> Once the inserts are where you want them, tip the
> spider over and sand down the top of the inserts so
> that they are straight all the way across. At this
> time, you may tip the spider forward or back, or both,
> to contour the inserts' tops with a slant or
> round-over. Sand parallel to the length of the
> inserts; sanding perpendicular to them may snap them
> off. Light pressure, a little at a time. I like to
> slant the top of the inserts down in back, so that the
> strings are supported by the groove at the fretboard
> end. Rattles are less likely this way, but sound will
> be a little brighter than from a rounded top and
> string groove.
>
> Harbor Freight (usual disclaimers) sells a set of
> small diamond coated jewellers' files. The triangular
> file is good for starting notches for the string
> slots, and the tip of the round file can be used to
> round out the channels for the biggger strings.
> Again, go slow. I would not recommend tryiong to cut
> the ivory with a knife blade. Uou will likely chip
> the knife blade, and certainly will chip the ivory.
>
>
> N I'm fired up to do this. I don't have any
> > real tools, though. N don't wanna buy any, cuz, if I
> > do, I'll be in deep doo doo when I buy one tool,
> > then another
>
> > Oh, and, how the HAYALL 'am a phool like me' gonna
> > tell how to file down the proper side of the nut (if
> > I replace it again)
>
> Sand it as you did the bridge inserts, a little at a
> time. Slant the top slightly downward toward the
> tuning pegs. The end of the groove should be AT (not
> behind) the very front of the nut. If you round off
> the string grooves in the front of the nut, you will
> get buzzes. Other than that, the angle at the top of
> the nut doesn't matter much. Since the angle of the
> strings differs for each tuner location, you cannot
> easily slant the top of the nut for each string.
>
> > or the bridges, not to mention
> > how do I calibrate and measure degree angle of
> > slope, to create that string slope that's required.
>
>
> > Ya know, I mightas well go out whole hog n empty
> > both barrels. Uh, how do I get the old nut out (if I
> > have to)
>
> I have found the beat way to remove a high reso nut is
> to remove the strings (duh), then lay a block of wood
> with a flat end square against the nut, on top of the
> frets. Tap it lightly with a small hammer. (More
> tools!) And listen! After a couple of taps you will
> hear a change in the sound, as the nut becomes loose.
> Quit tapping, and lift the nut up out of teh slot.
> Probably a small amount of neck wood and some glue
> will stick to it. Sand this off, again long smooth
> gentle strokes. You want to remove junk, not bone.
>
> > and what do I do to put it back in?
>
> Clean out the slot (if there is one) carefully to
> leave the bottom flat. Add a very small bead of glue
> like titebond to the front bottom edge of the nut, and
> press tightly back in place. If you needed to dress
> up the slots in the nut, you can sand down the tip of
> the nut 1/32 of an inch or so, to get a new surface
> for the small strings, and enough in deepening the
> slots for the larger strings to obtain a new surface
> for them, too.
>
> The angle of the strings to the fretboard is not
> normally critical, unless you use a capo that rests of
> the fretboard. Then the nut should be high enough to
> make the strings parallel to the fretboard.
>
>
>
> > Skwirrels got it easy. They go bonk out, and fetch
> > back when yer walkin by.
> > Twangingly Thrilled In ForsakenValley
> >
> Indeed! Good luck.
>
> Dick DeNeve
>
>
>
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