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Message 1903
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| Subject: | Re: [RESOGUIT-L] Re: fingerboards | | Date: | Thursday, December 29, 2005 18:42:23 (-0800) | | From: | Richard DeNeve <richard_d13132 @.....com>
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--- DeweySlideWell@aol.com wrote:
> Wayne wrote:
> >>> For that matter why are Reso fret boards fretted
> at all
> when fretting isn't an issue? I'll bet it's because
> that pounding
> in brass fret wire is cheaper / faster than inlaying
> / painting fret
> markers..<<<
>
> Painting on frets would be *SO* much easier and
> cheaper,
> but I like real frets because of the *wedging
> action* they have
> on the fretboard.
> They add a tremendous amount of stiffness to the
> neck.
> You can correct a bowed neck by refretting with
> "waffled" frets.
> That is the part of the fret that goes into the slot
> has a zig zag
> pattern bent into it length wise. This wedging
> action can restore
> the neck back to specs.
> Strength is an issue, especially with a Dobro neck.
> Good luck,
> D - S - W
>
I used to routinely use inlaid wooden and (later)
plastic frets, even though it was a bit more work in
layout and cutting the grooves. As wayne says, they
act only as position markers; the steel is a moveable
fret.
Most people preferred metal frets, as that was what
they were used to, and some capos register to the
fret. If your fingerboards have binding, and you take
the time to undercut the fret tang so the fret comes
out over the binding to look nicer, it takes as much
time as inlaying them.
Dewey is right about the wedging effect of wide tangs
in narrow slots. But weak woods or small sized and
round necks may bend, and thus can be corrected by a
back-bent fingerboard. A strong square neck won't be
affected by such a sprung fret board, but then
probably wouldn't have bent in the first place.
What is more likely on some resos is that the angle of
the neck will change with respect to the body, and the
strings will get farther from the fret board.
Dick DeNeve
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