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Re: [RESOGUIT-L] D mikelist
RE: bar resurfacin Matthew
Re: [RESOGUIT-L] M reso-man
Re: [RESOGUIT-L]st tower.op
Re: [RESOGUIT-L] M Wayne La
Re: [RESOGUIT-L]st D. Tanne
Re: [RESOGUIT-L] D laruepor
Re: [RESOGUIT-L]st Wayne La
Keeping picks on kbrown
Re: [RESOGUIT-L]st David Ta
Re: [RESOGUIT-L] D David Ta
RE: [RESOGUIT-L] M Reso Dud
Re: [RESOGUIT-L]st Reso Dud
Re: [RESOGUIT-L] R Reso Dud
Re: [RESOGUIT-L]st Dave Dil
New member and a q claudio.
Re: [RESOGUIT-L] N Larry Be
RE: [RESOGUIT-L] M PHIL LEA
Re: [RESOGUIT-L] N Wayne La
Re: [RESOGUIT-L] D Michael
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Subject:Re: [RESOGUIT-L]sticky stuff for picks
Date:Monday, April 3, 2006  21:52:08 (-0500)
From:David Tanner <dcsrt @.....net>

One of the cool things about my Bradley bars is that they have a  
rough surface on the upper part of the bar where you hold it. Both  
are stainless. It's a great idea. Also, when I attended a MA clinic,  
his Stevens was beat as hell and worn down to the brass years ago. He  
likes it that way - and I know better than to question that!     - Dave

On Apr 3, 2006, at 2:17 PM, mikelist wrote:

>
>>
>> BTW, has anyone ever successfully re-surfaced a scuffed Stevens or
>> Shubb?
>>
> Resurfacing a bar would require plating, I guarantee you will  
> strike brass if you go deep enough to level a scratch. You can  
> leave it brass, though, it has a slick feel to it and doesn't sound  
> bad. I have a Stevens that's about 25 years old and the working  
> surface is all brass. I use it frequently. Lots of 400 or finer  
> paper and water or a precision grinder. If it's convenient or  
> affordable, get a new one.  If you have ten or twelve battle- 
> scarred bars laying around, it might be worth the cost.
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