| Subject: | [RESOGUIT-L] Re: new member | | Date: | Sunday, February 18, 2007 00:13:08 (EST) | | From: | DeweySlideWell <DeweySlideWell @...com>
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trevorsteger wrote:
>> what year is the dobro i have . Original hounddog lable at top,
blond sunburst finish,maple neck slotted headstock,round neck,
numbers stamped on top of headstock 1 127 R90H <<
Experts. Well, an "X" is a has been, and a "spurt" is a drip under
pressure.
The Dopyeras made Houndogs long about the late 60s early 70s
when Mosrite still held the Dobro Patents. They got the patents &
rights back in the early to mid 70s, and made them still in the early
90s, as I helped a fellow in Martinsville Virginia get started playing,
and he bought a new one then.
Gibson, once they bought the "Dobro" name & rights started
making them sometime in the late 90s til recently, perhaps they
are still making them.
My best *guess* at dating of your instrument would be 1991
(or perhaps 2001, by Gibson, but not as likely in my mind) with
the "1" on your headstock being the year & the 127 meaning
yours was the 127th instrument built that year.
I believe that the older models just said "HoundDog" while the
later ones said "Original HoundDog". I could have that backwards
or something, as the Old Grey Matter she aint what she used to be.
As for the Brass nut, well, a lot of great pickers like them
I like them myself. I am not fond of Brass bridge inserts, but to
each his own. That is the main thing.
How do you like the way it sounds? If it sounds OK to you, then
by golly it is OK.
I would worry more about practicing making Dobro noises,
like Billy Gilbert said.
If the strings are all level and you can play without having to
exert yourself overly much, I would let her ride as she is.
Does yours have a 12th fret neck/body joint, or a 14th fret? Most
Lap Stylers prefer the 12th, seems like, because of "tradition"
perhaps and because it makes for a stronger instrument.
Sometimes the 14th fret jobs sound a little better, because when
you scoot the neck up away from the tailpiece, the cone& bridge
also have to be scooted along with it. ( The distance from nut to
12th fret must be equal to the distance from the 12th fret to the
bridge in order for these things to work, you see...)That makes for
longer strings behind the bridge compared to a 12 fret model. That
can add some dynamics to the instrument.
The main thing is * HAVE FUN WITH IT*!
Welcome to The List, and good luck.
D - S - W
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Re: new member
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