| Subject: | Re: [RESOGUIT-L] bridge inserts | | Date: | Wednesday, September 28, 2005 15:16:33 (+0000) | | From: | reso-man <reso-man @.......net>
|
Hi Listers,
I've been kinda keeping quiet on this string changing / bridge inserts recent
thread, but I'm with Dobro Eddie on Paul Beards Resonator Guitar set up video.
It's very good (typcal Beard product) and well worth the cost which I think was
around $40 bucks when I ordered mine when I got involved with this crazy-wierdo
instrument some years back.
I've read many of the "correct" ways to restring a Resonator guitar but for my
OWN INDIVIDUAL SELF, I change the strings ONE STRING AT A TIME, starting from the
center, and working my way to the oustide edges of the guitar. For example, I
start with the 4th string and bring the new string right up to standard pitch,
then I change the 3rd, bringing the new string right up to pitch, then the 5th,
then the 2nd, then the 6th, and finally the 1st. I bring every string right up
to standard pitch as I tune it up. I also stretch every string by gently pulling
it straight up a couple of times and then retuning it to standard pitch. This
way, I feel that the guitar "thinks" it only has one "broken string" or one
string missing (for whatever reason) atta time. Your mileage may certainly vary,
but this works for me.
I prefer the somewhat "brighter" sound of the ebony capped hard maple bridge
inserts, and with regard to the height of the inserts, on one of my better
sounding instruments, (actually a cheapo mutt, I'd guess someone built from a
kit, go figure huh?) I've got the inserts set so high, they actually TOUCH the
palm rest part of the coverplate untill the strings are tuned up to pitch, and
then there's probably 1/16th" clearance. I just put a Quarterman cone in this
thing, and actually had to very gently pry downwards on the center of the spider
bridge (I'm thinking "ut- ohh" here) to work the 4th string up into it's slot,
and then do this again for the 3rd string, but as these two strings came up to
somewhere's near standard pitch, (remember in this case I'd completly unstrung
the instrument to change it's cone)but as I gradually put the new strings on, and
brought them slowly up to standard pitch, I could actually see the cone react to
the downward pressure and allow for clearance. I'm betting in this particular
guitar's instance, if I detuned all the strings completely at once.......they'd
be all touching the bottom side of the palmrest part of the coverplate
again........
I wonder if this flexing of the cone would be more pronounced in a guitar with a
Quarterman cone because of it's thinner metal?? I wonder even if I'm starting to
"slip gears" in my old age?? (Answers to last comment NOT required).......
Fascinating things, these Resonator-guitars!
Richie Chiasson
Salem, N.H.
-------------- Original message --------------
> Paul Beard sells a video on resonator guitar setup and maintenance. I think
> the address is: beardguitars.com. The video covers all/
>
>
> Eddie Thompson
> Plant City, Fl.
>
>
>
> In a message dated 9/27/2005 11:30:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> wlangdon@hot.rr.com writes:
>
> > Thanks to those that answered my question on bridge inserts. More punch
> > (volume) especially on the 6th 5th and 4 strings, is what I'm looking for.
> > Janet Davis has the ebony topped two piece inserts, ala banjo bridge, in
> > stock. I really would love to find a set with bone insets also.
> > So now to my next question. There does not appear to be a whole lot of
> > room between the bridge cover and the top of the inserts. Is disassembly
> > required for the bridge replacement? Strings removed or shoved aside yes,
> > but unscrew and remove the resonator cover too? http://www.frets.com/ has
> > a really crackerjack online maintenance manual for the 5 string banjo. Is
> > there any such comparable resource out there for the dobro?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Wayne Langdon
> > Copperas Cove, Texas
> >
> > The two enemies of the people are criminals and government,
> >
>
>
>
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