| Subject: | Re: [RESOGUIT-L] String changing | | Date: | Saturday, March 24, 2007 19:06:04 (-0700) | | From: | Richard DeNeve <richard_d13132 @.....com>
|
Wayne,
I've posted this twice on this list, but not in the
last couple of years. For the newbies:
For vertical string posts, and treble side. (Reverse
directions for the bass strings, and think sideways
for slotted peghead.)
1) Loosen, cut, and remove the old string.
2) Slightly kink the ball end of the new string, slide
it under the hand rest, and put the ball through its
slot in the tailpiece.
3) Keeping firm hand tension on the string, wrap it
around the appropriate post clockwise about one full
turn so that, when you let it go, it is pointing
roughly back toward the tailpiece.
4) Slip the string end through the hole that is in the
3 to 9 o'clock position, and pull as much of the
string through the hole as you reasonably can.
5) Take the end of the string sticking out of the hole
and, pulling it snugly against the post, wrap it
counterclockwise back around the post until it has a
sharp bend where it comes out of the hole.
6) Slip the tip of the string under that segment of
itself that was formed in step 3 above, and snugly
pull out any slack. (Bending the tip slightly upward
will help in this step.) Come up from underneath in
this step for 2 reasons. When you clip the string
end, it will be pointing up so you won't put circular
scratches on the peg head. And when you tighten the
string, it will automatically wind downward toward the
peg head, reducing stress on the post, ferrule, and
gears.
7) Tighten to pitch, stretch, and tighten again to
pitch.
This method cinches the string back on itself so the
more tension there is on the string, the tighter it
holds itself from slipping.
A couple of weeks ago, I wrote that I change strings
in an unorthodox way. I loosen and cut in two strings
1, 2, 5, and 6, and pull them through from the
tailpiece, and unwrap them from the tuning posts. I
leave strings 3 & 4 at full tension to hold everything
in place.
I then replace strings 1 & 6 on the guitar as
described above, then strings 2 and 5. If the order
were reversed, the segment of string 2 and/or 5
between the nut and the post is in the way, and makes
it harder to do strings 1 & 6.
Once these 4 strings are done, I do strings 3 & 4.
You can clip the loose ends whenever you feel like it.
I use only two tools, a pair of pointy pliers with a
side cutter back near the hinge, and one of those
plastic hand cranks that fit over the tuning machine
handle. The pliers are used for cutting the old
strings, kinking the ball end, slipping the end up
under itself (step 6), and trimming string ends. The
crank, obviously to all but Richie, is used to loosen
and initially tighten the strings.
Dick DeNeve
P.S. In a lot of recent posts, people seem to be
referring to their strings as 1 - 6, bass to treble.
My string packages (unless I get them unpackaged) say
"1st" for the skinny string, "6th" for the fattest.
Are you guys trying to confuse old farts like me?
You're doing a pretty good job with this nonsense.
(Notice in the above discourse, this doesn't matter,
as the strings are symmetrically arranged. Just
trying to keep everybody unconfused, me included.)
--- Wayne Langdon <wlangdon@hot.rr.com> wrote:
> Please describe, or tell us where to find a
> description / photo of the
> "Martin Knot"
>
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