| Subject: | Re: [RESOGUIT-L] String changing | | Date: | Saturday, March 24, 2007 21:58:30 (-0500) | | From: | Wayne Langdon <wlangdon @......com>
|
| In reply to: | Message 6394 (written by Richard DeNeve) |
Thanks. I'll be sure and archive this under Martin Knot.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard DeNeve" <richard_d13132@yahoo.com>
To: <resoguit-l@elistas.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: [RESOGUIT-L] String changing
> Wayne,
>
> I've posted this twice on this list, but not in the
> last couple of years. For the newbies:
>
> For vertical string posts, and treble side. (Reverse
> directions for the bass strings, and think sideways
> for slotted peghead.)
>
> 1) Loosen, cut, and remove the old string.
>
> 2) Slightly kink the ball end of the new string, slide
> it under the hand rest, and put the ball through its
> slot in the tailpiece.
>
> 3) Keeping firm hand tension on the string, wrap it
> around the appropriate post clockwise about one full
> turn so that, when you let it go, it is pointing
> roughly back toward the tailpiece.
>
> 4) Slip the string end through the hole that is in the
> 3 to 9 o'clock position, and pull as much of the
> string through the hole as you reasonably can.
>
> 5) Take the end of the string sticking out of the hole
> and, pulling it snugly against the post, wrap it
> counterclockwise back around the post until it has a
> sharp bend where it comes out of the hole.
>
> 6) Slip the tip of the string under that segment of
> itself that was formed in step 3 above, and snugly
> pull out any slack. (Bending the tip slightly upward
> will help in this step.) Come up from underneath in
> this step for 2 reasons. When you clip the string
> end, it will be pointing up so you won't put circular
> scratches on the peg head. And when you tighten the
> string, it will automatically wind downward toward the
> peg head, reducing stress on the post, ferrule, and
> gears.
>
> 7) Tighten to pitch, stretch, and tighten again to
> pitch.
>
> This method cinches the string back on itself so the
> more tension there is on the string, the tighter it
> holds itself from slipping.
>
> A couple of weeks ago, I wrote that I change strings
> in an unorthodox way. I loosen and cut in two strings
> 1, 2, 5, and 6, and pull them through from the
> tailpiece, and unwrap them from the tuning posts. I
> leave strings 3 & 4 at full tension to hold everything
> in place.
>
> I then replace strings 1 & 6 on the guitar as
> described above, then strings 2 and 5. If the order
> were reversed, the segment of string 2 and/or 5
> between the nut and the post is in the way, and makes
> it harder to do strings 1 & 6.
>
> Once these 4 strings are done, I do strings 3 & 4.
> You can clip the loose ends whenever you feel like it.
> I use only two tools, a pair of pointy pliers with a
> side cutter back near the hinge, and one of those
> plastic hand cranks that fit over the tuning machine
> handle. The pliers are used for cutting the old
> strings, kinking the ball end, slipping the end up
> under itself (step 6), and trimming string ends. The
> crank, obviously to all but Richie, is used to loosen
> and initially tighten the strings.
>
> Dick DeNeve
>
> P.S. In a lot of recent posts, people seem to be
> referring to their strings as 1 - 6, bass to treble.
> My string packages (unless I get them unpackaged) say
> "1st" for the skinny string, "6th" for the fattest.
> Are you guys trying to confuse old farts like me?
> You're doing a pretty good job with this nonsense.
> (Notice in the above discourse, this doesn't matter,
> as the strings are symmetrically arranged. Just
> trying to keep everybody unconfused, me included.)
>
>
> --- Wayne Langdon <wlangdon@hot.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Please describe, or tell us where to find a
>> description / photo of the
>> "Martin Knot"
>>
>
>
>
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